Emporium

Under the HDMI-CEC settings, you have one switch on top, and then 4 additional switches under it. One is namely the "Volume Control" option. Is that enabled or disabled ? In your situation, since you are using digital out for surround also, you should be using MAX Volume set to on. Then assuming you have Volume option enabled above and your TV/System supports it (check TV for CEC settings options), the volume buttons on the remote would control the volume level of the TV via CEC. This way EVERYTHING would be passed along to the TV/Home theater for processing and volume control. However as you already know, there is a bug where the "Never use surround" option is forced to on everytime you turn the box on. And as Buzz already mentioned to you that it will be fixed in their next update ( https://buzztvhelp.com/topic/14958-defaults-to-no-surround-sound/#findComment-41943 ).

Do you have any receiver setup for surround sound on your setup ? Or just basic box connected to TV with basic speakers/simple sound bar ? Sounds to me like some channels have surround sound encoding and the box is trying to pass-through to external device (as such, the device can no longer control the volume - since it is pass-through). If that is the case, then Go to Settings->Device Preferences->Display and Sound->Advanced format & processing. Turn off all the the 4 listed formats, and then select "Advanced sound settings", "select formats" and select "None: Never use surround sound". Try that and see if that helps. PS: Is there any reason you have CEC enabled ? I disable all CEC, and just turn TV and box on separately. After that I only need to control the box.

The G21 remote is not programmable. I'm sure everything was regulated by google on that. The only functions you will have are possibly CEC functions if enabled.

purpose ? Is it to be able to use unpowered external hard drives with the unit ? If that is the case, then you would have to check the specs of your external drives to see how many mA of power they require to spin-up and see how much power the USB hub you choose can output to each port, max. With most of my buzz devices, I typically use either a large quality USB stick (which does not require any additional power), or I use powered external drives which do not rely on the host device for power.

What is the context ? For entering Server info ? If it's for server info, the best option is to use the QR code or IP method listed at top of server screen and use your phone/tablet to enter that info. A hell of a lot easier than using a remote. Now for other apps, the only way I know how, is to switch to mouse cursor mode (mouse pointer button to bottom right of DPAD). Then move to the entry box/field, press OK to select it, and then you can long press the OK button as you would on a phone screen, to get the context menu which will often include options like "Select All" "Cut" "Copy" "Paste"... Then you select which option you want and hit OK again. I have not tried it on the Classic AI specifically, but so far on most buzz boxes, that works.

Contact cs @ Buzztv.com if it is still under warranty.

Hehe.. He didn't, but I did..:) And I just tested a few devices I had tested previously and I am glad to say that the issue seems resolved with 309. For reference, I tested with an Anker Soundcore (old original one), a JBL Wonderboom, a cheap Chinese freebie BT speaker that came in a case of Sapporo beer, and a Poly Voyager 2 headset. All seem to work fine now. I connected and forgot each device at least twice each to ensure it would re-pair. Using the cheap Chinese freebie, I had to unpair and pair a second time since te first time it was way out of sync. Second time it was also out of sync slightly, but as soon as I changed channel, it was perfectly synced. Bounced back to original channel and all good. So I suspect the channel changed forced it to resync the video/audio timing. However one thing I did notice is that when you initiate a BT "pair" request, the remote no longer controls the P6 using BT. You need to wait a few seconds and remote switches back to IR mode to complete the pairing (selecting the PAIR/CANCEL option), and then once the pairing is done, it reconnects and all is back to normal. So it is like the Pairing request for the speaker, pauses the BT communication temporarily until the pairing is complete. Luckily you don't need to pair often if it is the device you plan to use regularly with your P6. Nice work Buzz. Thanks.

I'll give it a shot tonight when I get back from the office and report back, since I was able to reproduce previously.

Don't assume it is not an HDMI issue. Bad HDMI can cause all sorts of odd behaviors, since it can be getting erroneous commands. Was it working fine and all of a sudden it is doing that ? Or is it new and has been like this since you installed it ? Is the box in an enclosed environment (like in a cabinet or behind the TV vent, etc..) ? Proper airflow ? Have you tried another power outlet (maybe it has brownouts) ? If you have another USB-C power adapter that supports the basic 5V 2A output, have you tried swapping out the original power supply, just in case it happened to be defective ?

I agree with Ryu, If your wiFi signal is marginal, then you will not get much better. Better to fix that, that look for an Antenna. But if you insist on getting other antenna, you can always look for other antenna with SMA connectors (Not RP-SMA). If you look on amazon Canada for item B074WNSFS9 you will see an antenna which "claims" to be a 9dBi Omni SMA Male Antenna. Decent reviews, but your mileage may vary. Fixing the source is always a better option.

This thread is NOT for the G-Series app. It is for the Mobile app only. Mobile app does NOT have the demo server installed.

All I can tell you is that my box is connected to my Netgear Prosafe switch, and the Link LED stays on regardless if the box is on or in standby. If I pull the cable, from the box, it obviously turns the LED off. Have you "tried" to use Sparkle/Tivimate to record and has it failed when box is in standby ? I have not tried on my G-Series to record but on most of my older buzz boxes, I typically do a "shutdown" on the box, and not "standby" (I have always hate standby). If I had something scheduled for record, the box would power itself on a minute or 2 before the scheduled record, it would then record as scheduled, and then shutdown again once it was done. So I never really cared or checked if the link LED was ever on since it would re-establish any network connection as soon as it powered on in prep for the recording.

I just got home and checked my G Series box. When it is in standby/suspend, my network seems to remain connected. At least the Link light on my switch stays on, so the physical ethernet port on the box is still active.

And WHY would it need a network connection in sleep/standby ? When it comes out of standby, it will re-establish whatever connection it had.

I never bothered to retest again. My setup does not use bluetooth for anything other than the remote. The only reason I tested at the time was to validate Maestro's findings. But it is far from being my usual setup. Only place I use a BT audio device is in the bedroom, on my old xrs4900, with my anker headphones, for watching TV after the wife starts snoring 🙂

The output of the box is variable (if you don't have max volume enabled). 0 to 25 is just the fraction of the MAX volume the box outputs. As dishuser mentioned, if it is not loud enough for you, you should crank up the volume on your TV/Soundbar. They could have numbered it from 1 to 100 and go up in increments of 4 instead and it would still be the same total volume output by the box. I typically leave my TV at about 60% volume and then the 0 to 25 of the box is plenty. Some people prefer max volume enabled, and then just use the volume control from thier TV/Receiver/Sound bar instead. It's all personal preference.

On Android 13 boxes (like the X5 SS which I just checked) there is an option under Device preferences->Display options for "Text Scaling". It has some fixed values to choose from (85%, 100%, 115% and 130%). However this option does not exist on previous version (Android 7, 9 or 11) boxes as far as I know. It does help a little, but you still get a limited number of characters. Keep in mind that this is an OS option and this setting affects EVERYTHING on the box, not just the guide. I would have liked to keep mine at 115% (getting older) 🙂 But with that I would have liked to change the Guide view to be something like 5-6 rows (instead of 8 ), and instead of seeing 4 (30 minutes slots) to seeing only 2-3, to give each column a little more room. Making configurable would have been nice. Not going to speak for Buzz, but I think new features for BuzzTV 5 are not really a very high priority. Dynamic scaling for these things can be very tricky, so it can open a whole new can of worms. New boxes are coming now with BuzzTV 6 and I am sure the priority is on stabilizing that and adding new features to BuzzTV 6. I may actually make a request for this scaling feature for the guide for BuzzTV 6, so maybe one day it'll be added, but I am sure it is not a huge priority any time soon.

Buzz is aware of it and working on a few more fixes, so I am sure it will be released shortly.

Liked it when we got it in recent update. But noticed one small side effect as I use it. If you press the OK button to get channel list and you are just scrolling through a bunch of channels to see what is playing on other channels, then you decide to just go back to full screen of the current channel playing, the back button, no longer does that 🙂 Small work-around is to press right to get single EPG, and then when you press back it goes to full screen of current channel. But it is a workaround. Is it potentially possible to map it to LONG-press of back button with prompt to exit, like it is on BuzzTV 5 ? I'm saying that, but I have no clue on what restrictions Google imposes on buzz for standardization in their ecosystem.

You will need to contact cs @ buzztv.com and explain it to them if you need to return for potential repair/replacement under warranty. Did you split your Wifi to 2 different SSID to force the router to split the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz to different SSID ? What router are you using ?

What version of BuzzTV 6 do you have on your box ? 4k streaming issues were addressed in V1.0.302 (at least on the G Series), but should be same on Classic AI. When you report issues, you should provide a little more info next time. Sub type (MAC, XC, M3U). Firmware version V2026xxxx and BuzzTV S/W version (1.0.xxx). Kind of helps to know and make sure we are all talking about the same. And so someone can try to reproduce. General idea... Can't reproduce, can't fix.

For me the EPG does get pulled and works fine with the main server I use, but when looking at channel list, by default channels all say "Live Stream" under them (not the guide). But in the playing video screen, if you press the second icon which is next to the "cast" icon (which looks like the bullet point list) it brings up the channel EPG.

You'll have to do them one at a time. The only backup Buzz Provides is for the BuzzTV app to backup (export) the settings, servers, favorites). And no, there is no Cloud based DVR option at the moment. Each device is independent from one another.

When you say "shuts down", are you talking about the box physically powering down (losing power), or the buzztv 6 app shutting down and force closing ? You sure your fan and external usb drive are not drawing too much power from the USB ports ? Don't forget, that this box is only fed by a basic 5V 2A power supply, so don't expect huge current being available from the USB ports.

Works perfect fine with backup player also. I typically use backup for VOD/TV Series, and at least TV series which I use often, are flagged as watched. But like Ryu mentioned, you do need to let it finish. If you exit before it finishes, then you will need to manually flag the episode as watched. For External player, I also tested with VLC and it does not flag them as watched when finished. But that is expected, since the buzztv app just passes the filepath to the external player, and then get's no feedback except when the player exits. So it has no idea if player exited at beginning, halfway through or after finishing playing. Not even sure if the external player exits with en error if there is any real handling (since it is irrelevant to buzztv app).