Emporium

Haven't checked the P6, but my X5 SS is now at 969. Thanks

I can't comment on Classic AI since I have not tried TS on it yet. Not a feature I typically care for anyhow. However I do NOT have any rebooting issues with my unit, and there are 2 or 3 days a week that I have it turned on streaming in the background (when I work from home), for at least 10hrs a day. Using primarily 3 servers on it, 2 XC subs, and 1 is a custom M3U which I maintain with some public streams. However I just enabled TS and tested it on my X5 SS, using BuzzTV 5 and it seems to work as expected. Your B5 should work similarly, except that will be quite a bit slower in responding as it is the super basic/entry level device. Being a slower box, and only having USB2 ports (no USB3) it can be challenging. If the bitrate is too high, the USB2 port may not be fast enough to keep up if using USB storage. First of all, it only works if you have "Primary" player selected for LiveTV in Menu->Settings->Configuration. If using "backup" it is not enabled. I also found that it works better if you force the Stream type to "TS" instead of Automatic. If you are using USB for anything (Downloading, recording or TS) then you better be using a very high quality USB device. And don't forget to enable the "FORCE USB TS and set set the TS cache storage location). Also ensure to format the unit as portable storage, or if you have access to a PC, format it using exFAT on your PC, before inserting into your BOX. Also, I don't know what kind of sub you are using, but all my servers are XC type subs. I do not have any MAC based subs, and don't care to use any services that are only MAC based any more. Other that that, it works fine. Attached is a quick snapshot of it in work a few minutes ago. PS: When you also buy the latest device of ANY brand (not only buzz), you are being naive if you believe you will not be faced with a few bugs as it goes into use with a larger number of users. Even when you buy a flagship phone for thousands of dollars, it is often riddled with bugs and already piles of recorded bugs before it hits the shelves. There is always the early adopter advantages/disadvantages issues you need to deal with. If you are not ready to deal with that, then you should always stick with a long time proven older device. There is nothing stopping you from installing any other software on your box that works for you, with all the features you want.

Programmable shortcut keys (not color keys) will prompt you for choosing what you want them to be mapped to the first time you try to use them. If you want to remap them later, you can Just hold the button down for about 3 or 4 seconds and once you release it will prompt you again to reassign it to a different app/action. Even the FreeTV button can be mapped to what you want.

At least on the P6, BuzzTV 5 was more of a "backup" in the early stages when BuzzTV 6 was still in the early stages. But sure, it would be nice to have it up to date however, On the X5 SS, BuzzTV 5 is the main player ( at least for now - unless there they surprise us )

Will 967 (or newer eventually) be sent to the X5 SS at some point ? I know it Android 13, but it is on BuzzTV 5 Having some minor audio issues, but before reporting anything, I'd would have liked to try it with 967 which I have on my other boxes, instead of 961 which the X5 SS is still on. Just to make sure it's not because of the version.

Tried 3 different server and no issues here. What version of BuzzTV 6 are you running ? (Many ways to check but one way is from the LiveTV screen, press OK to get the channel list. Then go left a few times.. On the leftmost panel, go up to Main menu and press OK. Version number should be listed at the bottom of the Main menu panel). Are you running a VPN ? If so, try changing server (different VPN servers have their ups and downs).

On which box ? BuzzTV 6 now runs on more boxes (P6, G Series, Classic AI, and L1 (lite version) ) I don't have this issue on any of my boxes however.

Yes. In a lot smaller concentration however. "Some" Windex formulas can contain typically up to 5% alcohol. Not the typical 70% that most wipes contain. But honestly, I have never needed to use anything more than a lightly damp microfiber towel to wipe them down quickly.

I'm Greek, so everything just get's wiped down with a rag moist with a little Windex Not sure I'd recommend alcohol wipes, since over time the alcohol may affect the metallic blue colored screening on the top of the Classic AI.

Too bad the old harmony remotes are no longer They used to be great for combining all the stuff and the device databases were huge.

The fact that the box does NOT process the audio and passes it through, it does not have control of the volume level. So that is unfortunately NOT an option. IF CEC is enabled for Volume control and TV supports it, the big-buttons for volume control on the remote should be able to control the volume on your TV through CEC. Assuming it has variable volume and it is NOT passing control via CEC to your home theater system. This is exactly how some of the firesticks would do it since they have NO internal variable volume control of their own. I suspect it may be a case of too many embedded CEC controls. As a test try unplugging your playbar from the TV and see if the CEC controls can control your TV volume. Does your TV have anything in the menu options to enable/disable CEC volume control ?

Under the HDMI-CEC settings, you have one switch on top, and then 4 additional switches under it. One is namely the "Volume Control" option. Is that enabled or disabled ? In your situation, since you are using digital out for surround also, you should be using MAX Volume set to on. Then assuming you have Volume option enabled above and your TV/System supports it (check TV for CEC settings options), the volume buttons on the remote would control the volume level of the TV via CEC. This way EVERYTHING would be passed along to the TV/Home theater for processing and volume control. However as you already know, there is a bug where the "Never use surround" option is forced to on everytime you turn the box on. And as Buzz already mentioned to you that it will be fixed in their next update ( https://buzztvhelp.com/topic/14958-defaults-to-no-surround-sound/#findComment-41943 ).

Do you have any receiver setup for surround sound on your setup ? Or just basic box connected to TV with basic speakers/simple sound bar ? Sounds to me like some channels have surround sound encoding and the box is trying to pass-through to external device (as such, the device can no longer control the volume - since it is pass-through). If that is the case, then Go to Settings->Device Preferences->Display and Sound->Advanced format & processing. Turn off all the the 4 listed formats, and then select "Advanced sound settings", "select formats" and select "None: Never use surround sound". Try that and see if that helps. PS: Is there any reason you have CEC enabled ? I disable all CEC, and just turn TV and box on separately. After that I only need to control the box.

The G21 remote is not programmable. I'm sure everything was regulated by google on that. The only functions you will have are possibly CEC functions if enabled.

purpose ? Is it to be able to use unpowered external hard drives with the unit ? If that is the case, then you would have to check the specs of your external drives to see how many mA of power they require to spin-up and see how much power the USB hub you choose can output to each port, max. With most of my buzz devices, I typically use either a large quality USB stick (which does not require any additional power), or I use powered external drives which do not rely on the host device for power.

What is the context ? For entering Server info ? If it's for server info, the best option is to use the QR code or IP method listed at top of server screen and use your phone/tablet to enter that info. A hell of a lot easier than using a remote. Now for other apps, the only way I know how, is to switch to mouse cursor mode (mouse pointer button to bottom right of DPAD). Then move to the entry box/field, press OK to select it, and then you can long press the OK button as you would on a phone screen, to get the context menu which will often include options like "Select All" "Cut" "Copy" "Paste"... Then you select which option you want and hit OK again. I have not tried it on the Classic AI specifically, but so far on most buzz boxes, that works.

Contact cs @ Buzztv.com if it is still under warranty.

Hehe.. He didn't, but I did..:) And I just tested a few devices I had tested previously and I am glad to say that the issue seems resolved with 309. For reference, I tested with an Anker Soundcore (old original one), a JBL Wonderboom, a cheap Chinese freebie BT speaker that came in a case of Sapporo beer, and a Poly Voyager 2 headset. All seem to work fine now. I connected and forgot each device at least twice each to ensure it would re-pair. Using the cheap Chinese freebie, I had to unpair and pair a second time since te first time it was way out of sync. Second time it was also out of sync slightly, but as soon as I changed channel, it was perfectly synced. Bounced back to original channel and all good. So I suspect the channel changed forced it to resync the video/audio timing. However one thing I did notice is that when you initiate a BT "pair" request, the remote no longer controls the P6 using BT. You need to wait a few seconds and remote switches back to IR mode to complete the pairing (selecting the PAIR/CANCEL option), and then once the pairing is done, it reconnects and all is back to normal. So it is like the Pairing request for the speaker, pauses the BT communication temporarily until the pairing is complete. Luckily you don't need to pair often if it is the device you plan to use regularly with your P6. Nice work Buzz. Thanks.

I'll give it a shot tonight when I get back from the office and report back, since I was able to reproduce previously.

Don't assume it is not an HDMI issue. Bad HDMI can cause all sorts of odd behaviors, since it can be getting erroneous commands. Was it working fine and all of a sudden it is doing that ? Or is it new and has been like this since you installed it ? Is the box in an enclosed environment (like in a cabinet or behind the TV vent, etc..) ? Proper airflow ? Have you tried another power outlet (maybe it has brownouts) ? If you have another USB-C power adapter that supports the basic 5V 2A output, have you tried swapping out the original power supply, just in case it happened to be defective ?

I agree with Ryu, If your wiFi signal is marginal, then you will not get much better. Better to fix that, that look for an Antenna. But if you insist on getting other antenna, you can always look for other antenna with SMA connectors (Not RP-SMA). If you look on amazon Canada for item B074WNSFS9 you will see an antenna which "claims" to be a 9dBi Omni SMA Male Antenna. Decent reviews, but your mileage may vary. Fixing the source is always a better option.

This thread is NOT for the G-Series app. It is for the Mobile app only. Mobile app does NOT have the demo server installed.

All I can tell you is that my box is connected to my Netgear Prosafe switch, and the Link LED stays on regardless if the box is on or in standby. If I pull the cable, from the box, it obviously turns the LED off. Have you "tried" to use Sparkle/Tivimate to record and has it failed when box is in standby ? I have not tried on my G-Series to record but on most of my older buzz boxes, I typically do a "shutdown" on the box, and not "standby" (I have always hate standby). If I had something scheduled for record, the box would power itself on a minute or 2 before the scheduled record, it would then record as scheduled, and then shutdown again once it was done. So I never really cared or checked if the link LED was ever on since it would re-establish any network connection as soon as it powered on in prep for the recording.

I just got home and checked my G Series box. When it is in standby/suspend, my network seems to remain connected. At least the Link light on my switch stays on, so the physical ethernet port on the box is still active.

And WHY would it need a network connection in sleep/standby ? When it comes out of standby, it will re-establish whatever connection it had.